Beiträge von jstange


Abonniere unseren Kanal auf WhatsApp (klicke hier zum abonnieren).

    Kal000px Great, could you please do the same for the reskin pack (adding version numbering)?


    Additionally, I had a question about the run sounds as heard from outside - do you think they are loud enough? Compared to other similar locos, I'd probably be for increasing their volume a bit...

    Yes, but the file name still remains to be just Traxx setup.exe. If you don't rename your file manually after the download you never know what you have on your hard drive...

    The loco is really excellent (I haven't tried the update yet!).


    Perhaps the run sounds in the outside view are a bit on the quiet side...? Kal000px don't you think? Other similar locos are like thunder when they pass around you, not this one...


    EDIT: What about adding some version numbering to the file name so that one immediately knows if the version for download is indeed newer?

    Dson Kal000px So it finally seems all is OK, the 3rd phase clears the brake test too... the "brake cut" button did the trick for me.

    The fast startup procedure then is:

    1/ Press Ctrl+Shift+O three times

    2/ Raise the panto

    3/ Turn on the main switch

    4/ Release the spring brake (back panel)

    5/ Push the brake cut button (in front of you)

    6/ Reverser to forward

    7/ Release all other brakes

    8/ You can now drive off using E+A...

    Of course add any train protection systems as required...


    Kal000px Can you please advise where one can obtain those shiny RegioJet coaches? Thanks a lot!

    Have you perfomed the ETCS brake test? I struggled a lot with this at first. I didn't know I had to unlock the train brake lever to be able to release the brakes fully. So, you have to do that. Push the round, white button to the right of the main display in the middle, then release the train brake as well as the direct brake, then perform the ETCS brake test. It doesn't give a real response when clicking the button for it, so keep an eye on the air gauges.

    That's the main question: do I still need to perform the brake test when I use the fast startup? (Ctrl+Shift+O) I thought it was part of phase 3!

    I haven't had much time to try it out yet, but wanted to use the fast startup to take her for a spin... went through all three phases of the quick startup, raised the panto and used the main switch, I could hear the loco coming up, the panto was raised but even after releasing all the brakes I still see "traction lock" (written in german) on the left screen and I cannot depart. Any hints?

    Kal000px Hi, one question regarding what I saw in the last video done by Vlackari CZ - the headlights cannot be totally turned off? The thing is that headlights on during the daylight creates a very unrealistic effect on all surrounding objects, I usually drive with HL off for that reason.


    I understand that HL off may not be an option in the real loco, but given this TS flaw, it would be great if there could for instance a key combination to turn them off, or at least turn the lighting off.


    Thanks!

    So great job with v3, it drives way better than the previous version. Even the tractive effort copies the steps, excellent!


    Unfortunately as others noted the automatic fan cotnrol seems to be broken (it was ok before), and you have to switch it off manually when standing still to shut the fans down. Is it intentional or is this a bug that will be fixed?

    Nochmal bezüglich des Hochschaltens: In diesem Video erkennt man ganz schön, wie "flott" und direkt die kN-Anzeige auf das Aufschalten reagiert.

    Yes, the tractive effort goes down nicely together with the level display... and when the display gets to 00 the tractive effort si at 0 almost at the same time. The old model really had it quite right. Not perfect but OK. Let's see what Ulf will be able to come up with.


    I'd have one more question regarding sounds please linusf What is that hissing noise that gets stronger during curves? It represents rail friction in curves? Not sure I heard this sound in any of the BR111 video, actually in any loco so to speak. Are you sure it is accurate?

    linusf

    First, 218 does not impact reaction time to PZB and speed signs, at least not to such an extent as with the 111. It's not the fact that I know how things are in real life that's bothering me, this inaccuracy is impacting the driving too much, you must react too much ahead.


    Secondly, if it is not Expert Line, perhaps it could be moved out of the EL section ;)


    Thirdly, I understand Ulf is busy, but that's exactly my point, a simple sentence would do much more than writing long paragraphs he actually sent me...


    And one last thing: perhaps you assign emotions to what I write, emotions that are actually not there. I just state facts and if I write I dumped 30 Euros, that's just what it is. If you want to start braking and wait and wait for the traction meter to go to zero it's irritating. I would have a tendency not to use the loco in such state, I know that now. I'm not emotional, but of course I'm concerned.


    And no worries, you don't need to send me out to have fun...I'm definitely not going to leave my PC, already switched to Zusi 3 for the time being ;)


    vR_Ulf

    Clear info finally, thanks!

    linusf

    Oh dear, oh dear...

    1/ This is not a small deviation! This means that taking the loco all the way from level 28 down to 0 traction (not 00 on the display, zero traction - as this is what matters) takes much longer than in real life. I believe I don't have to explain to you what impact it has on slowing down under PZB 1000 Hz conditions or slowing down to a speed limit. OR... you have to start braking when the tractive effort is still present - which is very unrealistic and something unheard of even in simpler models that are not tagged by shiny terms like expert line. This is no incorrect drive simulation we had with 218 where you simply had to use a higher power level to maintatin speed. You probably remember that I had no issue with this in the 218 and I am enjoying driving it just fine!

    2/ Again, this is called expert line... I know that Maik is not with vR anymore, but this is how he always used to define expert line: it has reasonable representation of driving characteristics. And driving behaviour that severly impacts reaction to safety systems is far beyond the line of acceptable (you asked where's the line, right?}

    3/ Again and again...the old model had it right (or at least way closer to reality). Don't you think I can expect the improved model to act _at least_ the same?

    4/ And last but not least... why this "Jesus Christ" thing? I was asking a _simple_ question on whether Ulf recognises the issue and is planning a fix (otherwise I - in my view - really wasted the money spent). That's all. I even submitted a ticket to vR and although I am not entitled to quote private email conversation here, I will at least state that the reply was in my very very humble opinion not exactly professional and the answer to my _fundamental_ question whether a fix is planned was left unanswered. One sentence would do it: "We are aware of the issue and are working on a fix". Period. And this is not coming, not via this forum nor via email.

    And by the way... writing this simple sentence would take signicantly less than what you wrote above and what Ulf sent via email did.

    gesingus I am not sure, but the manual contains information on brightness increase and descrease and the picture within the manual shows the headlights reach far beyond what I can see in the sim. Therefore I believe the increase of brightness is possible with this model (to what extent this is prototypical is another matter, but I think the HL reach in tunnels is really too low, the lowest I've ever seen with any model).


    I've had a few more drives and unfortunately as the previous post says the power control in the 8 years old vR model indeed seems to work way better. I'd really welcome if vR_Ulf could provide his comment, I don't want to dump 32 Euros.

    I personally hope something will be done with the run down - for me a pure 1:1 copy from the original 2012 model would be better than this. Going to 0 power takes ages and switching power lever to off prematurely feels very unrealistic. Unfortunately this is something one is using all the time while driving; if it's not fixed I may not use the loco very often and I just wasted more than 30 Euros. :(


    Additionally, could someone please tell me if increasing the headlight brightness works for you (Shift+Home/Shift+Pos1 on the German keyboard)? It does not for me and the headlight is very weak by default.