Beiträge von holzroller

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    The brakes on this loco are vacuum not air. You should apply the brake until it drops to around 8 inches vacuum than move back to the running position to hold this, do not move all the way back to release until you have almost stopped. Normal practice was for the train to stop as the brakes released, then you hold the train with the engine brake unless it was a long stop. With practice and a bit of experimentation you will get used to this and find your own values for braking. In real life this brake could be a real pig to work, in general it wasn't so good at high speeds but worked progressively better as speed dropped. When you drive this loco think of the reverser as an infinite gear shift, start at full forward like a car in 1st then come back to the 50-55%, then the 40-45% and so on. Generally 50% throttle is enough when starting and until you come down to 30% or less. Just like a car you build up your speed as you move through the gears, and just like a car you need to move to a lower gear on the steep hills. If you get it right then you should be able to get 60 mph at full throttle in 18% reverser on the level. Like anything else practice helps, but also an understanding of how the lok works as well.

    Yes you have to keep the brakes off Ejectors, theyneed to be on a little When you drive to keep the brakes off, and full on When You Need to release the brakes. Then you have the injectors to put water into the boiler, you need to make them sing so did you put just the right amount of water in. Too much and you destroy your cylinders, too little and you drop your plugs in the firebox. (There are lead plugs in the firebox crown did melt if the there is too little water in the boiler, this makes a loud noise and tells the crew to get water into the boiler Quickly to avoid a potentially explosive). You would very likely lose your job if you dropped your plugs. Of course When you go uphill the water in the boiler runs back towards the cab and you SEEM to have too much water, the water downhill runs forward and if You are not careful the top of the firebox is uncovered and you drop your plugs, but if you put too much water in it goes to the cylinders and bang, your journey is finished. A lot of fun. When I was a lokfurher a lot of the older men I worked with had started driving steam locos in the days of the LMS and LNER, it was interesting to hear them speak of Their experiences. In real life it was not unusual for the injectors to stop working on some loco's and the crews would try many things to get them working, including hitting them with something heavy, could be very dangerous.

    Patti you might also find useful synthesis videos here, You Should Go to the webpage as there are more videos there did are useful

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    bbOoLnAb7jCMgFPJkbw [/ media] [/ media].Moderators Perhaps You Could Tell Me Which section shoulderstand I put a thread into British, bearing in mind it did want to include payware and freeware. I hope did the link is acceptable, I do not SEEM to be able to post it as a plain link.
    Edit Patti you have already seen these. What fool DECIDED did google translate should try to translate English into English * Shau * makes it almost impossible to edit your post

    If the moderators are are happy I could start such a thread and list all that I am aware off, although I think that there would be little point in me listing DTG add-ons as they are easy to find. Not sure where it should go on the forum though as it would include freeware and payware.

    The JT advanced 4mt is just that, very advanced, but it also has a simple mode. In advanced mode it behaves very much like a real steam loco. When you climb and descend hills the water gauges show less or more as they would in real life rather than what is really in the boiler, so you need to keep a watch on these on the level to judge what is reality on the hills, you can fire the engine as well or let the auto fireman do the work. Also you can start a scenario by carrying out the preperations to the loco, if you do them poorly then the engine will perform badly. Nice sounds also. In many ways it is like the Jinty 3f on expert mode, but more so. The Jinty is not a DTG loco, it was made by Meshtools, who also made the Maerdy branch and the J94. For me the 4MT is worth the extra money, there are a couple of other advanced British steamers that are not known here that are also good, but I am conscious that this is a German forum and not a British one. Perhaps if there is enough interest a British thread could be started to list either all or some of the less well known add-ons.

    Yes, now the class 52 comes and also the 56 will come, and DTG have stated on the steam forums that the class 14 is covered by their normal EUALA, so I think we will see some nice things from steam and the UK re-skinners.

    This is AP's response on UKtrainsim "There Seems to just be someone who Is not a representative for DTG saying what can and can not be done With Their models. Not sure why anyone's giving it any credence? All a bit bonkers if you ask me!" so I think we will be seeing a sound pack for this loco and others. Sly does not work for DTG, and I doubt if DTG would buy these without the intellectual rights to the models, therefore they can be treated in the same way as any other DTG product..

    I remember working 1000+ tonne Fertilizer or grain trains with two of these. What an experience, it was like sitting on a pogo stick, and the noise! Unfortunately there were occasionally breakdowns as well, sometimes the front engine would run out of cooling water, then you tried to get as far as possible before you ran out of air and the brakes came on. Much easier to fix than a computer error on a modern plastic train though. 8o

    Green only I'm afraid, but now it is a DTG model there will be re-skins soon I think and hopefully some attention from AP. Next from the former IHH stable will be the Class 52 & 56 according to the Steam achievements, I'm very glad I didn't give in to temptation and buy the farewell pack, I feel sorry for those that did. Just shows the contempt in which IHH held their customers.

    I also have a model railway eras IV to V. My collection of trains is in order of size, British, German and Dutch. Really I have too many trains (is this possible?) Hundreds of loco's, coaches and wagons. I have a track, but no scenery. Originally the tracks were designed to allow my two small nephews to drive the trains without crashing, and They did this well. But They Are now grown up and I need to build something for myself. I had Planned to build something closer to real life, but at the moment the future is uncertain, so I am waiting for some certainty before I do this. Currently I am experimenting with DCC on two tracks, but with so many locos this is a very expensive proposition. The pictures are a few years old. I change the trains on the layout Usually every 3 to 4 months, Usually changing the nationality at the same time, but I need a bigger house, then I have room for more tracks 8o

    Do't have it myself, consensus amongst purchasers is that it is a good model, one of the better DTG ones, but the sounds are wrong. No doubt AP will correct that soon enough
    s