Beiträge von holzroller

@ Big Benjy, yes I read the special tip, unfortunately it does not solve the problem. But a re-install of the 151 pluspack and switching off SIFA did help those other problems, until my computer overheated 3km from the end * Shau * But a very nice scenario

@ Big Benjy, yes I have update 1.26. The scenario would not start saying did the player engine had many errors, F2 and save made it work but then when i was at the reversal point the dispatcher would not change the points to allow me back onto my train. Deleting the go by marker from the Lok timetable fixed this. However I am now having other problems in this scenario Which 'may be due to my computer over heating. Houses here are built to keep heat in, not get it out.

I you experience problems with the BR151 RBH snow scenario, the solution that worked for me is to go into the editor and delete the "go by marker" in the timetable. Otherwise I am not able to reverse onto my train.

Video here courtesy of a ukts poster . Not great but gives you an idea of the lok, you can hear the lok working towards the end, he seems to coast a lot in the first part of the video.

Personally I have cloned the original Route and tasks, so I can access the original and the updated. If there is an update at least it is a simple convenient installer to re-update the route again.

http://www.uktrainsim.com/filelib-info.php?form_fileid=32935 This patch is specifically for the AP sound pack. Details as follows;
Specifically, the Following featuresthat JT Implemented late in the Class 20 Advanced development, and Which the AP sound pack disables, have been purely stated. 1) Switchable External AWS Warning sounds (Both internal and external volumes so Reduced slightly) (The External AWS mute switch can be found just to the right of the brake lever When facing forward in the cab ie the 'Flat' end of the loco) 2) Wheel Flat sound if excessive braking is used 3) Battery isolation switch sound 4) Master Key Rotary Switch sound backups of the original files are included in the package, in case you want to revert to the 'default' version. Additionally I have included my update to the Class 20 Advanced Camera Cab file. This moves the driving position back slightly, and thus makes the alternate postion face the 'nose' of the train much like the original version did, and Which was not done for this advanced version. Richard Armstrong Has graciously allowed me to distribute this patch via UKTs.

Patch now available on UKTS, this patch has AP's blessing. There will not be an official patch in the near future, but it may come later, Richard probably feels his time is better spent on new products than duplicating something that is already available.

It may be due to the type of wagons in your train, but in reality the lok should not move with 100% brake. On the real loco if brake pipe pressure falls below about 50 psi the power will be cut. If you apply power with the straight air (lok) brake applied the lok will simply overload and cut out with a big bang. Same with a vacuum braked loc, although I forget how far the vacuum falls before this happens. There will be an update on UKTS tomorrow to allow the AWS to be heard outside the cab and the functionality of some switches restored when using the AP sound pack.

This is a very nice model, it was updated last year so not quite from 2011. I used to drive these occasionally, it is a reasonable representation of the real thing, but doesn't quite behave the same way. The 156 is also quite nice, but it has not yet had an update.

I don't have the problem, so it is difficult to help. Frame rates seem ok, I can only suggest re-download the add-on from your account, uninstall the 4mt and re-install using the new download. Some people appear to have random problems with TS2014 if they are using Windows 8, but otherwise I would suggest contacting JT themselves on Tuesday, tomorrow is the May day holiday here.

It's a nice enough Lok, originally it was made and sold by DT so it is not up to recent advanced standards, you need the Steam Sounds Supreme sound pack to get the best from it. http://www.steamsoundssupreme.com/page_rbsoundpack.html it adds some functionality as well as sounds, these loks were notorious for slipping, although I think the rebuilds were a little better. There is a video on the sss page so you can see what the lok looks like and how much of a difference the sound pack makes. Matrix trains make some nice coaches to go with this lok http://matrixtrains.myminto.co…ulleid-635-coach-set.aspx

Strange, I have just tried the lok in a free roam and the advance features including the throttle work correctly for me. I presume that you have expert controls enabled in the sim? What frame rates are you getting?

This is due to these loks having a simulation of the steam chest as on a real lok. It takes a lot of getting used to. For the black 5 you can change to normal TS2014 steam controls by pressing a key, not sure but I think it may be B. For these loks the HUD doesn't show reality, and the throttle behaves much more like a real steam loco. When you open the throttle there is a slight delay as steam enters the steam chest, and when you close the throttle, steam will still go to the cylinders until the steam chest empties. You have to anticipate what you must do with the throttle, to control the lok, especially at low speeds.

The class 45 on steam so what to IHH model. A few IHH models were released on steam in the early days. Certainly Mr Godber said that he had sent updates to DTG.
And now its eems the IHH class 20 will re-appear as a DTG product

There are several locos where J is used for the ejectors. Some locos, mainly DTG, have very simple incorrect brakes, but the more advanced include ejectors. With a few rare exceptions British locos in their original form were fitted with Vacuum train brakes or with some freight locos no train brakes. The vacuum brake works by creating a vacuum in the train brake pipe which releases the brakes. When you apply the brakes the vacuum is partially destroyed, or totally destroyed if you make a full application. On a steam loco the ejector works like a vacuum pump creating and maintaining the vacuum when required. It is harder to recreate the vacuum after braking than it is to maintain it when running, this is why you normally turn the exhauster down when running. On a diesel loco with vacuum brakes you have exhauster driven by electricity, in the cab there is a speed up switch to assist in releasing the brakes quickly. Many diesel loks were also built originally with vacuum brakes and later many, but not all had air brakes fitted as well. This is another thing that TS2014 doesn't simulate. All diesels and electrics built since the 1970's were air brake only. Some modern museum steam locos have been converted to air brakes. In real life the vacuum brake was not so good at high speed, but very good at low speed. In my opinion as somebody who drove many trains with both types of brakes it took much more skill to use than air brakes.

J is for the exhauster, these locos are vacuum braked, so there is no compressor. On some DTG locos the exhauster is either on or off, but others it is variable. With the variable version you need it fully on to release the brakes, but when running you have it on just enough to keep the vacuum brakes off.

The physics are incorrect on the DTG model. It is more powerful than it should be, but it is a newer and probably nicer looking model than the JT one.

The brakes on this loco are vacuum not air. You should apply the brake until it drops to around 8 inches vacuum than move back to the running position to hold this, do not move all the way back to release until you have almost stopped. Normal practice was for the train to stop as the brakes released, then you hold the train with the engine brake unless it was a long stop. With practice and a bit of experimentation you will get used to this and find your own values for braking. In real life this brake could be a real pig to work, in general it wasn't so good at high speeds but worked progressively better as speed dropped. When you drive this loco think of the reverser as an infinite gear shift, start at full forward like a car in 1st then come back to the 50-55%, then the 40-45% and so on. Generally 50% throttle is enough when starting and until you come down to 30% or less. Just like a car you build up your speed as you move through the gears, and just like a car you need to move to a lower gear on the steep hills. If you get it right then you should be able to get 60 mph at full throttle in 18% reverser on the level. Like anything else practice helps, but also an understanding of how the lok works as well.

Yes you have to keep the brakes off Ejectors, theyneed to be on a little When you drive to keep the brakes off, and full on When You Need to release the brakes. Then you have the injectors to put water into the boiler, you need to make them sing so did you put just the right amount of water in. Too much and you destroy your cylinders, too little and you drop your plugs in the firebox. (There are lead plugs in the firebox crown did melt if the there is too little water in the boiler, this makes a loud noise and tells the crew to get water into the boiler Quickly to avoid a potentially explosive). You would very likely lose your job if you dropped your plugs. Of course When you go uphill the water in the boiler runs back towards the cab and you SEEM to have too much water, the water downhill runs forward and if You are not careful the top of the firebox is uncovered and you drop your plugs, but if you put too much water in it goes to the cylinders and bang, your journey is finished. A lot of fun. When I was a lokfurher a lot of the older men I worked with had started driving steam locos in the days of the LMS and LNER, it was interesting to hear them speak of Their experiences. In real life it was not unusual for the injectors to stop working on some loco's and the crews would try many things to get them working, including hitting them with something heavy, could be very dangerous.

Patti you might also find useful synthesis videos here, You Should Go to the webpage as there are more videos there did are useful

bbOoLnAb7jCMgFPJkbw [/ media] [/ media].Moderators Perhaps You Could Tell Me Which section shoulderstand I put a thread into British, bearing in mind it did want to include payware and freeware. I hope did the link is acceptable, I do not SEEM to be able to post it as a plain link.
Edit Patti you have already seen these. What fool DECIDED did google translate should try to translate English into English * Shau * makes it almost impossible to edit your post