Beiträge von Norweger

    Könnt Ihr die Strecke empfehlen oder nicht?

    Been a passenger on this line in the 60's and up to 90's, but not very often. Line and signals are fine and working like I expect it to driving with PZB, greenery is good, and buildings are at least German style and not UK style. If any local details are missing I wouldn't know, as my memory even from the 90's are starting to fade. This scenery was a must-have, and now I have it, and a beer to celebrate. Only thing I miss are better looking ferries, and a vR V200 or BR221, plus a sleeping car to build myself a "Hamburger" consist.

    Me, I have to admit, it is more about collecting locos than building landscapes. But by accident I discovered an easy way to grow trees, so now collecting and driving. Love your collection displayed :)

    In N scale, I went for diesel and flatlands since I was often in Varel/Bremen/Wilhelmshaven in the 60's, 70's and 80's. Also a good excuse in order to not build mountains and rig catenarys. Planned laziness! Here my latest loco, the Fleischmann BR 44 with Henning sound. Absolutely involving those sound locos. I am also experimenting with how to place trees, and will sell the (too) modern station, and replace it with a smaller in red brick, like in Varel.


    Warning: Lousy pic, but this is a story :)


    HA! Absulutely true. Norwegen by the press is a lie, so as you state, bestimmt auch in Norwegen. Working 9 years for NSB I know what the facts are. Forgive me if I was to rough regarding DDR - It is a period in time I want to recreate, as of interest and not of critisism :)

    Nobody yet made a cargo run from Lubeck Hafen to Hamburg Wandsbek for Hamburg-Lubeck Updated. Well I just did, after two days of frustration. Even got the Danish IC3, German ICE-TD and a cargo train (plus a BR628 to Neumunster) all happen at the same time, while waiting at Bad Oldesloe Track 39; the IC3 is passing, and the ICE-TD is zooming past me. It seems I soon have to share with you one of my first scenarios ;)


    Mine is right now different than the Lion. But I think I can correct this by uninstalling both, because I know when I had the Re 4/4 first, then got the Lion, both locos behaved the same.


    @Swisstraindriver


    True, a solid one-man show, and I still will stand against the critisism regarding the 460, but here this is off-topic ;)

    It is funny you mention this, as our test track for ATS (like PZB but simpler), had a very steep gradient uphills, and I had to bang our locos fast up to 40 and above to force an emergency stop. A couple of times I was too fast... and blacked out a certain big railway station because I passed from one power supply to another, without switching off the main breaker :saint: . Oh that was the times... "heelp can you come and get me with the battery tractor, please?"...


    This taught me how to use the Hebel on those old classics, and I have still the "muscle memory", making it easy for me to regulate after a short time with the Twx loco. As you say, it is for shure important to be vigalant all the time. Three bangs up, two down a few secs later. I don't remember anymore, but I used to know exactly how many Stufen before going uphills, and how many while climbing. This I need to re-learn with the Twx locos.

    Yes you are both correct, and thank you. I corrected my post. I also expected a typo regarding Re, Ae and all that, as the new designations totally confuses me :-p To drive these locos with precision, is only a question of spending a few hours in them.


    Oh, and btw: Now to reinstall the Twx 4/4 Green classic ^^

    Based on 9 years driving the NSB versions for real, they should work like rasender-roland describes. The Norwegian El-11 and 13 have a nullstellung, then you increase, and bang-bang-bang like the knallfrosch. Return to null and you keep those Stufen. To decrease, anticlockwise (reduce). Our El-14, which was based on the Ae 6/6 the same thing, but instead of a Hebel, a Wolkswagen steering wheel :D - and a luftmotor to drive the knallbreakers.


    EDIT:


    Need to correct myself here:


    The locos work correctly. Me, I have no control when I can't hear the switching (like in the real-world locos), and I also loose control when there isn't a meter showing the actual Stufe. So Dot is Neutral. M is regulator slow up, + is fast up. Minus regulator slow down. After setting off like a rocket from Innsbruck with the Lion, I was able to control my speed quite precisely, almost like I had an AFB. Best thing is to not use the HUD, just watch the Hebel. Up for two secs, back to Dot. Down (-) for two secs, back to Dot.